Summer Watering Tips

With summer upon us, the hotter, drier weather means your plants require more water, and your watering method can make the difference between a thriving garden or a wilting one.

General Watering Tips

* It's best to water your garden and landscape early in the morning when the temperature is cooler and the water won't evaporate.

* Late afternoon/early evening watering is also okay if the plants have ample time to dry before nightfall.

* Many people like to apply a light mist several times a day. This causes the water to evaporate quickly and encourages shallow root systems.

* Plants growing in full sun require more water than those in the shade.

* Don't overdo a good thing. Plants roots need to breath. Continually over watering causes shallow root systems, root damage, and unhealthy plants.

Newly-planted trees, shrubs, & perennials

Newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials, with roots close to the surface and not out into your native soil, require special watering. Their roots can't access the water in the native soils, so the entire root ball must be saturated on a daily basis in hot weather gradually going to every other day, depending on plant type and weather conditions. It takes at least a year before their roots grow out and can properly access the moisture in the surrounding soil.

The very best way to water is using a drip system, which delivers the water right to the root ball. Make sure the drip tubes are delivering the water to the center of the top of the root ball and not just to the side. Run the drip system daily for ample time to saturate the root ball. Drip tubes should be run long enough to deliver 2 gallons of water to shrubs and 4 gallons to trees each time it runs.

Don't rely on the spray heads of your sprinkler system or hose to deliver water to the root ball. The spray often hits the foliage and bounces off, missing the root ball and saturating the surrounding soil. When watering with a hose, deliver the water right to the root ball. Make a well or mote with the surrounding soil around the outside of the root ball to trap the water so it will soak straight down. Turn the water pressure down to let it slowly deep soak. Make sure the top of the root ball is exposed and not covered by your native soil. It's okay to apply mulch over the root ball.

As the weather cools down, later this fall, water the same, but less often. Gradually go from daily to 3 times a week and finally to once a week in very cool weather. Remember to water late in the fall, right up until the weather is extremely cold. If you have turned off your sprinkler system, drag out your hose. If we have a warm, dry winter give your plants an occasional deep soaking to prevent winter loss and damage.

Established tree, shrubs, & perennials

Because older plants have established root systems, they should not need to be watered daily. Drip systems can be run 3 times a week. Drip tubes should be run long enough to deliver 2 gallons of water to shrubs and 4 gallons to trees each time it runs. Sprinklers, both automatic and hose-end, should run accordingly.

As the weather cools, continue to water the same, but less often, going from 3 times per week to 2, and eventually to 1 deep soak a week in very cool weather. Continue to water until the weather is extremely cold. As with newly planted plants and trees, be aware plants may need watered during the winter if the temperatures are warm and the ground is dry.

Lawn Watering

Lawns should be watered on a regular basis during hot weather. It is always better to water longer, but less often. Watering everyday promotes a shallow root system, which is not a good situation. By allowing the top soil to dry between grass, roots will grow deeper in the soil to find the water. This will promote a better lawn.

Apply 1/2 inch of water at each watering. Test sprinkler heads by placing a straight sided container on the lawn. An empty tuna fish can works great for this. Allow it to fill to 1/2 inch to determine how long to run that station on your sprinkler system. Spray heads put out a lot more water then large rotor heads. Some stations may only run a short time and others may require up to one hour or more. As the weather cools you may need to adjust the time. This also applies if you are watering with a hose.

In hot weather you may need to run the system three times per week. As the weather cools in the fall or in the spring, two times per week will work, gradually decreasing to once a week.

If there are areas in your lawn that will not green up, no matter how much you water, you should check for lawn insects. Dry spotting is what their damage appears like. Learn more about lawn insect damage.

Signs you are Under-Watering:

•Soil is dry
•Leaves curl
•Older leaves turn yellow or brown, and drop off.
•Blossoms wilt

Signs you are Over-Watering:

•Soil is constantly damp
•Leaves turn a lighter shade of green or turn yellow
•Young shoots are wilted
•Leaves are green yet brittle
•Algae and mushrooms are growing

Winterizing Roses

Fall care for hybrid tea, Grandiflora and floribunda roses.

Understanding dormancy will help to determine the proper time to prune.
During dormancy, the sap has left the canes and the canes are simply empty tubes of cellulose. Pruning too early in the fall (before the sap runs back down into the roots) cuts some of the nutrients out, so you must be sure the plant is dormant before fall (winter) pruning. The only fall pruning I recommend is if the bush is very tall and the wind will whip it around in the winter, then prune just the very top of the bush. Winter dieback generally occurs from the end of the branches. Pruning removes the available length that can die back before reaching the ground. Pruning a semi dormant plant stimulates growth and sap flow in the pruned region.

Proper cleanup.
To prevent disease/fungus from over wintering, clean the rose bed by removing leaves and other debris. Put the leaves in the trash. Do not add them to your composting materials because the mold spores will continue to grow in a compost pile, making your compost diseased.

Why cover roses in the winter?
Winter protection is essential for our climate. It serves two functions: (1) to keep the temperature of the bush high enough to prevent winter kill and (2) low enough to keep the rose dormant and prevent active growth. Covering also prevents the sun and wind from drying and withering the canes. This is the main cause of winter damage.

Timing is important.
Covering the rose too early is unwise as it may prevent the rose from hardening properly and will slow the onset of dormancy. Covering the rose too late may risk damage from the cold.

Covering the crown on the rose bush
There are several methods of protection to choose from. If the roses are growing in a bed, cover the bed at least a foot deep with tree leaves. Do not use rose leaves. For individual roses, make a mound with soil or mulch (Soil pep is great) to cover the crown at least 12 inches. A very easy method is to use rose collars, found in the garden center at Pinehurst. Fill them with leaves or easy to use soil pep, also found at Pinehurst.

Rose Collars are easy to use.  Fill them with leaves or soil pep.

What about Easy Elegance and shrub roses?

The great Easy Elegance roses from Pinehurst and shrub roses, such as Knock Out roses, are much more hardy and require little fall and winter care, other than to make sure they have plenty of moisture.

October Gardening

Changing the garden from summer to fall presents a wonderful activity during a special time of the year. Fall gardens provide opportunities for enjoying the warm days and cool nights.




Fall is for planting
This is a great time to plant shrubs that will add beautiful fall color to your landscape. Plant new perennials, trees and shrubs. Transplant existing trees and shrubs as needed. Divide perennials and replant them, cutting back blooms and foliage.

Deep soak trees and shrubs

Healthy plants can withstand the rigors of winter. The best way to insure you have healthy plants is to make sure they have ample water in their system going into winter.

Deep soak them weekly until the ground freezes. Give special care to the trees and shrubs you planted this spring and summer. Their roots are not out in the natural soil. Make sure to get the original root ball soaked.

Fertilize your lawn

Fall is absolutely the most important time to fertilize your lawn. Fertilizing with Ferti-lome Winterizer in late fall will build a strong root system that can withstand the hazards of winter. The slow release formulation promotes a thicker lawn with minimal top growth, while your lawn stores valuable nutrients for next spring.

Keep watering your lawn
You can water less often in cool temperatures.

Mulch
Apply mulch to the soil around beds to give plants a layer of protection. This is a great way to keep the soil at an even temperature throughout the winter, reducing the chance of the freezing and thawing of the soil from causing the plants to heave out of the ground. It will also help retain moisture in the soil. The sun beating down on bare soil in the winter will dry the soil quickly, causing plants to dry out. They will thank you, come spring, by displaying healthy and hearty blooms and foliage.

Clean your garden beds from summer "leftovers"
Pull dead annuals from containers and flowerbeds. Deadhead flowers, foliage, vines and vegetables and pull annuals out of your garden bed. If you leave dead plants, you run the risk of inviting insects to nest and lay eggs, which will hatch in the spring.

Recycle Fall Leaves

Though the lawn needs less frequent mowing, it's a good idea to mow over the fallen leaves, gathering them into the mower collection bag. This chops them into smaller pieces so when you add them to the compost pile, they will break down quickly. Plus, it's an easy way to tidy up the lawn.

Add Compost

Bare soil, where annual flowers and vegetables were removed, will benefit from compost. The organic material improves soil structure and helps replace nutrients. Turn the organic amendments into the soil to a depth of 4 inches or more.

On your porch and patio

Protect your outdoor furniture and grill. Slip-on covers will protect them during the winter.

Container Gardening

Empty any clay, concrete, or ceramic planters. Soil left in fragile containers will have moisture in it the will freeze and expand, which may cause the container to crack. Make sure any container left outside over winter will not trap water. If you can't store them in a protected place, turn them upside down or cover them so water can't collect in them.

Start your day off with some green therapy

Multiple studies show that a plant-filled environment helps people relax, raises pain tolerance for people with chronic disorders, and improves moods.

Researchers at the University of Essex in England crunched the numbers on 10 mental health studies and discovered that outside activity heightens self-esteem (as well as general mood) and the biggest boost is in the first five minutes. Part of the reason could be that the scale and timelessness of nature put our more common daily concerns in their place, study coauthor Jules Pretty says.

In one week   You'll be better armed against summer colds. In a recent Japanese study, adults who visited a forest preserve on two consecutive day experienced a jump in immune activity -- as measured in blood levels of germ-fighting NK cells -- that lasted a week.

In one year   You might find yourself increasingly moved to volunteer or perform other generous acts. According to research, people who regularly immerse themselves in nature have high levels of brain activity in regions associated with altruism and love.

Get started   Having a busy schedule means the day can slip by before you enjoy any green time. Try heading outdoors before things get hectic -- say, by sipping your morning coffee or tea on the back patio. If possible, avoid squandering weekends on indoor chores.  If all else fails, bring nature inside. Even small doses--a potted plant, a bouquet of freshly cut blooms--can lift your spirits.

Starting seeds indoors

Seeds started indoors require the same basic conditions as those started outside. But since their environment must be artificially maintained, it takes a little more attentiveness. Just as for all plants, the three basic requirements are soil, light and water. But in each case there are special considerations.


It is essential that the soil you use be sterile. One of the great banes of seed growing is a fungus commonly known as Damping-off Disease. The spores of this fungi are ever present in soil and the conditions of indoor gardening seem particularly advantageous to its propagation. It can wipe out hours of hard work in a matter of days. Use a good potting soil, such as Ferti-lome potting soil.


After the potting soil has been thoroughly moistened, it can be placed in seeding trays, flats, peat pots, dixie cups, egg cartons, etc. The size of the container will depend on what type of plant you're growing, and often experience is the best gauge.


A windowsill is not a good location for starting seeds. Window sills can be the coldest place in the house, especially at night, and then the hottest during the sunny days. Most seeds need consistently warm soil to germinate and produce strong roots. You can find seeding heat mats at Pinehurst, that are great to use when germinating seeds. After the seeds have germinated, remove the heat mats, as they would cause the plants to be too hot.


Seeding tray cover To promote germination, cover the flats or pots with plastic wrap. Clear plastic grower tray covers, available at Pinehurst, are very handy to use. This keeps the planting medium both warm and moist, but must be removed as soon after the plants sprout. Otherwise, you risk suffocating your young seedlings.


At this point you will need to keep an eye on things to maintain the proper moisture. If you have a totally artificial setup, you will probably be able to predict how often you'll need to water. If you're using a sunny window sill, you'll need to watch more closely.


Plant light for growing seedlings Seedlings need a lot of light. When seedlings receive insufficient light they become tall and spindly or "leggy." Even if you have a window that receives full sun, you might need to supplement it with artificial light. If you are using only artificial light, you'll need a great deal of it and much longer growing days. Use bulbs that are specifically made for growing plants and place them just a foot or so above your seedlings. You'll want to keep these lights on at least 14 hours a day. Fluorescent tubes are ideal because they won't produce as much heat, which can quickly dry out your seedlings.


The third ingredient is moisture, and this is the one that will require the most attention. You want to keep them medium moist, but not let them become wet or soggy. Be careful when watering not to wash the seeds too deep in the soil.


It is important not to start seeds indoors too early. If they outgrow your flats or small pots, you might try thinning them and transplanting the largest to bigger pots, but for the most part you want to plant them outside just as they become large enough to survive transplanting. This is generally four to six weeks after sowing, when they have at least two sets of true leaves. In other words, if you're aiming to plant the first week of May, you probably shouldn't be starting seeds any earlier than mid-March. Toward the end of this period, you may want to provide your seedlings with a little food in the form of a weak, water-soluble fertilizer. We recomend Ferti-lone Geranium and Hanging Basket Food.

Five Easy Decorating Ideas

1. Welcome them at the front door with a beautiful, festive wreath. You can choose from permanent, that will last for years, or a fresh, fragrant wreath. Our fresh wreaths are dipped in a preservative to make them last longer. We have a great selection of both permanent and fresh wreaths to choose from. Use a garland of greens to frame the entry. Add lights to make the garland sparkle. Attach a festive bow to your porch light to match the one on your wreath.


2. The mantle is the focal point of the living room. The beautiful and realistic permanent holiday greens available today are perfect for decorating the mantle. They won't dry out and are easy to shape just how you want them. Add a few candles, berries, ribbon, and old world Santas. Place poinsettias at the base of the hearth on both sides to add a lot of color. Be sure to move them away when you are using the fire place.



3. When decorating the Christmas tree, string the lights starting at the trunk and work your way out to the end of the branch and back in. Your tree will be beautiful and the stings of the lights will be hidden. Place decoration throughout the tree, not just out on the ends of the branches. Balls, bows and ornaments placed deep in the tree add depth, making the tree look much fuller. Hang all of the same kind, size, and color of an ornament or ball at a time, such as all the small red balls, to ensure they are evenly distributed throughout the tree.



4. A beautiful center piece is perfect for your dining room table. Choose from a fresh, fragrant arrangement or a permanent design that will last for years to come. Add festive, coordinating place mats and candles and your dining experience will capture the magical feel of the holidays.



5. Bring the holiday celebration into every room. Kitchens and bathrooms are a great place to put scented candles and smaller seasonal knickknacks, such a Santa and whimsical snowmen. Place a small poinsettia next to the kitchen or bathroom sink. Use simple permanent branches of greens to lay on a bathroom or kitchen counter, end table and night stand. You can add a few berries or ribbon.

Fall Gardening

Fall, the most important season in the garden

Spring seems to get all of the attention, which is understandable because everyone is anxious to be finished with winter and get back out into the garden.

Fall has traditionally been viewed as the end of the line, basically time to pick the tomatoes and rake leaves before everything freezes. In reality though, fall is the most important season in the garden.

Spring is a growth season, while fall is an establishment season. In spring, you get amazing foliage growth and flowering, while in fall you get spectacular root growth and an extended period of time to settle in.

Fall means a second chance for gardeners to do all those things we didn't get around to in the spring. If you feel the urge to work in the garden, but are not quite sure what to do, this reminder list should help. Enjoy the process.

Planting . . . Planting hardy trees, shrubs and perennials in the fall gives you much stronger and better established plants the next spring or summer. Be sure not to plant too deep. The cooler weather of fall creates a perfect opportunity for plants to establish in a low stress environment.

Clean it Up . . . Fall cleanup is an important endeavor, and is necessary to keep your yard running at top speed. Just remember that whatever you don't clean up now will still be waiting for you in the spring, and will probably be much more difficult to deal with. As perennial plants begin to die back for the winter, clean up old stalks and foliage that are no longer serving an ornamental purpose. Pull up and discard the annuals as they die back.

Give your trees a boost with tree nutrition . . . As the temperatures cool, and even after trees lose their leaves, tree roots are in their most active growth period. Give your trees and shrubs a nutrient boost about one month after the first killing frost, but before the soil freezes.

Weed Control . . . Little fall weeds become big spring weeds. Many of our common lawn weeds sprout in the fall, grow a healthy root system in the winter, and then explode in the spring. By applying weed killer in the fall, you can get many weeds when they are young, before they become difficult to eradicate.

Water trees and shrubs . . . Plants, especially evergreens, should be well hydrated entering winter. Deep soak them weekly until the ground freezes.

Rake leaves. . . Rake leaves and other debris from your lawn, making your yard more attractive. Moreover, removing leaves and debris prevents mold and other diseases from forming over the winter months. A thick layer of leaves can create a dense blanket over the lawn, keeping it from "breathing" and growing into its full potential. An easy way to remove fallen leaves is to spread the leaves out and mow them with a mulching mower. Mow again, this time bagging the chopped grass and leaves. Put the grass and leaves on your garden and till or turn them in. This is a great source of organic material.

For Beautiful Roses . . . Deep soak weekly up until the ground freezes. After the leaves fall off the trees is the time to winterize your rose bushes. Remove any diseased leaves from or around the plants and discard in the garbage. Mound soil, compost, soil pep or tree leaves 12"-14" deep on the base of each bush. Rose collars from Pinehurst are an easy way to keep the mulch up around the stems. Don't prune or fertilize roses until late spring.

Take time to relax and enjoy the beautiful warm days of fall in your yard.

For all your gardening needs visit Pinehurst Floral & Greenhouse at 4101 Poleline Rd., Pocatello, ID, and pinehurstfloralandgreenhouse.com.

Gardening and Your Health

Gardening Improves Your Health

Turn on the television at any time of the day and you'll be bombarded with ads for pills, powders, drinks, and exercise gizmos that promise to help you shed excess pounds. But before you shell out $50 for the "Chub-Buster 5000," get out your gardening gloves. Better health can be as close as your backyard.

Spring and summer gardening can be a great whole-body workout to shed extra winter weight. Weight-bearing activities such as digging and lifting can build muscle, and aerobic activities such as raking, mowing and hoeing can burn calories. A 180-pound person will use 202 calories during 30 minutes of digging, spading and tilling. Even 30 minutes of cutting the grass on a riding mower burns 101 calories.

There's even more good news for green thumbs. According to a 2000 University of Arkansas study that compared many forms of exercise, yard work is most significant for preventing osteoporosis in women age 50 and older. Researchers compared yard work to bicycling, aerobics, dancing and weight training. Yard work and weight training were the only two activities shown to be significant for maintaining healthy bone mass.

The Fruits of Your Labor - The best part of gardening may be the edible rewards. A summer's bounty of fruits and vegetables contains fiber that may reduce your risk for colon cancer, as well as antioxidants and phytochemicals that may reduce your risk for heart disease and some cancers. Fruits and vegetables are also low in fat, which can help with weight loss. The American Dietetic Association recommends that adults get at least three to five servings of vegetables, and two to four servings of fruits each day.

Why Valentine's Day is So Special

What could be more glorious than a day devoted to the hope, yearning and elation of romantic love? This is a great time to express yourself, and beautiful flowers make it easy.

Whether you’re dreaming of a new love – or showing admiration for the one who’s already made your dreams come true – Valentine’s Day is sure to be filled with red hearts, luscious sweets, and fresh, fragrant flowers. It’s a time to express heartfelt appreciation for lovers young or old. A day to reward true friends, family members and exceptional husbands and wives. But most of all, it’s a day to celebrate love.

Go GREEN with a Living

A living Christmas tree requires some additional care, but the benefits are enormous!


What a great way to decorate your home for the holidays, as well as add to your landscaping. Here are a few easy steps to follow.


-Living Christmas trees should be left inside only a week to 10 days. The warm temperatures of your home will bring the tree out of dormancy and it will start to grow. This would be detrimental to the tree.


-Transition the evergreen tree into and out of your home. Going from cold temperatures into a heated home needs to happen gradually. First, place the tree in a temperature shelter, such as a garage, for several days, then into the house for a week to 10 days. Reverse the process after 10 days until the tree is finally outside.

-The root ball of your living Christmas tree needs to be kept moist, not over-watered nor allowed to dry out.

-Trees can be planted after they are moved back outside as long as you can dig a hole. You can pre-dig the hole now, before the ground freezes and cover it with mulch for later planting. If planting is not possible in January, place the tree where it will be protected from the harsh winds and water it throughout the winter as needed, remembering that the branches will shed off any rain from getting into the pot.

Pinehurst has a great selection of living trees in all sizes. They are also great to use as an accent by your front door. Enjoy it for Christmas then watch it grow and add beauty to your landscape.

The Magic of Autumn Colors

How does autumn color happen?

Three factors influence autumn leaf color-leaf pigments, length of night, and weather, but not quite in the way we think. The timing of color change and leaf fall are primarily regulated by the calendar, that is, the increasing length of night. As days grow shorter, and nights grow longer and cooler, biochemical processes in the leaf begin to paint the landscape with Nature's autumn palette.


Where do autumn colors come from?

There are several factors that affect the brilliance of fall foliage. Color development in trees and shrubs are determined by both genetics and environmental conditions. We're fortunate to have sunny days and cool nights, which prompt bright yellow and orange hues. Additionally, drier soils, with high iron content, help bring on more intense colors. The absence of hard freezes also means a more colorful and long-lasting foliage show.

Have you ever noticed how much more showy the aspen foliage is in the mountains compared to aspen leaves in lower-elevation, metropolitan landscapes? Higher elevations have greater sunlight intensity and much cooler nights. Mountain soils generally are drier and drain water better than the clay soils common in home landscapes. Plus most gardeners provide additional irrigation to lawns and surrounding areas. Whereas home landscape soils are alkaline, high country soils are usually more acidic, which makes iron more available to the trees and shrubs.

Leaves are green because of the substance known as chlorophyll, a complex pigment needed for photosynthesis. As days shorten in late summer and early fall (and night temperatures cool down), synthesis of chlorophyll comes to a halt, and enzymes and sunlight break down the remaining chlorophyll in the foliage. A transformation occurs as this chlorophyll breaks down and other colorful pigments become more apparent.

The Reds

The scarlet colors are made in the leaves late in summer from sugars that are trapped in the leaf tissues and converted into a pigment called anthocyanin. This pigment is water-soluble and can be washed out. Therefore, if there is a rainy period during this time of transformation, the red coloration will be diminished.

The Yellows

Yellow is a leaf's basic color, present from the beginning. All summer long it has been masked by the green chlorophyll. With shortening days and the cessation of chlorophyll, the yellow pigments, including xanthophyll and carotenoids, are revealed. These pigments, and the tannins, that give the russet and brown colors, are least affected by rainfall.

Certain colors are characteristic of particular species. Oaks turn red, brown, or russet; aspen and poplar, golden yellow; and beech, light tan. Maples differ by species. Sugar maples display the most brilliant fall color, but will not grow in our alkaline soils. Leaves of some species such as the elms simply shrivel up and fall, exhibiting little color other than drab brown.

The timing of the color change also varies by species. The differences in timing among species seem to be genetically inherited.


How does weather affect autumn color?

The amount and brilliance of the colors that develop in any particular autumn season are related to weather conditions that occur before and during the time the chlorophyll in the leaves is dwindling. Temperature and moisture are the main influences.

A succession of warm, sunny days and cool, crisp but not freezing nights seems to bring about the most spectacular color displays. During these days, lots of sugars are produced in the leaf but the cool nights and the gradual closing of veins going into the leaf prevent these sugars from moving out. These conditions-lots of sugar and lots of light-spur production of the brilliant anthocyanin pigments, which tint reds, purples, and crimson. Because carotenoids are always present in leaves, the yellow and gold colors remain fairly constant from year to year.

The amount of moisture in the soil also affects autumn colors. Like the weather, soil moisture varies greatly from year to year. The countless combinations of these two highly variable factors assure that no two autumns can be exactly alike. A late spring, or a severe summer drought, can delay the onset of fall color by a few weeks. A warm period during fall will also lower the intensity of autumn colors. A warm wet spring, favorable summer weather, and warm sunny fall days with cool nights should produce the most brilliant autumn colors.

Is it time to makeover your landscape?

Let us show you the possibilities.

Maybe you need a complete overhaul or just a few minor adjustments. Your landscape should bring out the best of your home. You can get the assistance you need from a professional landscape designer. You can do the planting yourself or arrange for our planting service.

Before shrubs had over grown the front of this home, hiding it's beauty.


Free 30-minute In Store Landscape Consultation

Get all your landscape questions answered.

Bring photos and dimensions of your area of concern. Call and schedule your 30 minute, free, in store, landscape consultation.


One Hour in Home Consultation

You can have a knowledgeable horticulturist and landscape designer visit your home for an informative one hour session. A sketch of your home will show the possibilities properly planted landscape will do for your home.
Cost is $50 per hour in the Pocatello area.

Call 237-6522 to schedule your consultation.

Don't Lose Your Tomatoes to Blossom End Rot

Blossom-end rot is a disorder of tomatoes and peppers. Losses can vary from a small area to more than half the fruit.

Symptoms

The first symptom is a slight water-soaked area on or near the blossom end of the fruit. The affected area soon darkens and enlarges in a constantly widening circle until the fruit begins to ripen. The tissues are dark and shrunken and have a dry, leathery appearance. With peppers, the rot is tan in color and should not be confused with sunscald, which is white.

Cause

Blossom end rot is caused by a lack of calcium in the developing fruit. This may be due to a lack of calcium uptake from the soil or to extreme fluctuations in water supply.

Control

After tomatoes are planted and fruit has started to grow, good results have been obtained by spraying the foliage and fruit with Ferti- lome Yield Booster Blossom-End Rot Spray. Make applications every 7 to 10 days. Application should be done while temperatures are cool in the morning.

Moisture supply plays a critical part in calcium uptake and distribution within the plant. Calcium dissolves in water and moves from the soil into the roots and up the stems into the leaves and fruits. This water and calcium solution replaces moisture as it transpires (evaporates) from the leaves and fruits. The fruits have a high demand for calcium, but the leaves receive more because they have a higher transpiration rate. Supplying water to plants after they come under drought stress only partially relieves the situation since most of the calcium moves into the leaves rather than the fruit. In order to avoid this condition, adequate levels of soil moisture must be maintained consistently during the growing season.

Since blossom-end rot is so closely related to extremes in the water supply, an important aid in control is to regulate moisture supply in the soil. If cultivation is necessary to control weeds, it should be shallow to avoid root pruning. Mulching, which serves to maintain an even supply of soil moisture, should be practiced. To reemphasize, either an inadequate or excess moisture stress favors blossom-end rot development. In general, plants need at least one inch of water per week.

Removing affected fruits when symptoms are first observed may be worthwhile for subsequent development of other fruit on the plant. This is particularly recommended for tomatoes.

The use of Ferti-lome Yield Booster Blossom-End Rot Spray will help stop damage caused by calcium induced Blossom-End Rot and can help your tomato plants produce larger, firmer fruit for bigger, more productive yields.


Visit the garden solutions center at Pinehurst Floral & Greenhouse for all your gardening needs.

Improve Your Curb Appeal

When landscaping in the growing season, it's easy to forget what it's going to look like during the other eight months of the year. With a little planning you can have a beautiful landscape year round. A bonus of planting with year round beauty in mind is making your landscaping more maintenance free. You are not starting from scratch each spring.

Your home is a huge investment. Well designed landscaping adds value. If you should sell your home it will make a huge difference, especially if you need to sell in months other than the summer.

According to Money Magazine, "landscaping adds more value than almost any other home renovation." It also advised homeowners that even if they aren't planning a move right away, "landscaping is the one home improvement that actually appreciates over time."

If your front yard is lacking curb appeal, we can help.

Make a mental note and take a few pictures of your home. Bring the pictures in and we will be glad to help you make some adjustments to your landscaping that will give you 12 months of "Curb Appeal".

Call to schedule your FREE 30 minute landscape idea consultation or better yet, arrange for our landscape professional to personally visit your home and answer all your gardening and landscaping questions for just $50 per hour in the Pocatello area.

With your dreams and an expert plan of action, this can be your best landscape season!
Call 237-6522 today!

Easy Steps to Growing Beautiful Roses

Growing hybrid tea, grandiflora, and floribunda roses can be easy. There are a few things that are pretty important to ensure your success.

This first thing is the soil. Roses grow best in good soil. Soil that has had organic matter, such as compost and soil pep (ground bark), added, works the best. In Pocatello, Idaho, our soils are very clay, with little room for air in the soil and when dry it is hard, making it hard for the roots to grow. The organic matter makes the soil looser, as well as more fertile. If your roses are already planted, you can improve the soil by applying 2-3" of compost or soil pep and gently working it into the soil, being careful not to disturb the roots. Also apply soil activator (humates) to the soil. This helps loosen the soil, making the fertilizers work better and it feeds the soil.

Roses need at least five hours of sun a day to grow, so choose a sunny location with good air circulation.

When planting, bury the graft 3 inches below the soil surface for added winter protection.

Roses like a good, deep soak to promote deep rooting and they will actually develop drought tolerance if established this way. Frequent light waterings promote shallow roots, which you do not want. If overhead watering, it is best to water in the morning, so the foliage will be dry by night. Using a soaker hose or drip irrigation to water, can be done any time of the day.

Roses are heavy feeders - it takes a lot of energy to produce all those large, magnificent blooms! I recommend using Ferti-lome Rose Food, containing systemic insecticide the first of every month, May through August. August 1st should be the last time you fertilize in a season. The plants need to begin to harden off for winter.

Insects that commonly attack roses are thrips, aphids, and spidermites. By using Ferti-lome Rose Food plus systemic insecticide you can prevent their damage. An occasional out break of aphids is easily controlled with Ferti-lome Triple Action in a handy ready to use bottle.

The three rose diseases are blackspot, powdery mildew, and rust, all of which are types of fungus. Blackspot occurs during humid or rainy weather or where watering (especially overhead) is excessive. Powdery mildew prefers warm days and cool nights, crowded plantings or damp, shady areas. Rust develops on moist foliage. Proper rose culture, including plenty of sun, sufficient air circulation, proper watering, and sanitation (disposing of old leaves and other debris), will minimize all three disease problems, but they may still occur. If detected early and treated with a fungicide (organic or chemical), none of these will spread out of control. You can easily grow roses and never have to treat them for any diseases with proper planting and care.

Most modern roses will bloom all summer if properly groomed. "Deadheading" refers to the process of removing old or spent flowers from the bush. Proper trimming ensures strong reblooming. By deadheading roses instead of allowing them to form seed hips, you're signaling the plant to produce more flowers. Rose leaves develop in sets of three, five, even seven or nine leaflets. Prune just above a set of five leaves for quickest reblooming.

Winter care should take place very late in the fall, after the ground becomes cold and may even start to freeze. You don't want to trap the warmth in the soil. Mound soil, compost, or leaves (from the trees, not from the roses), up to 15" to 17" high on the canes. This will keep the soil uniformly cold in the winter and keep the rose dormant.

Spring care begins in late spring. When the forsythias are in bloom, remove the mounded protection and prune the roses. Pruning encourages growth and by doing this too early in the spring will leave the new growth susceptible to a late frost.

This is a great time to plant roses. Check out the great selection of beautiful, healthy roses at Pinehurst.

Spring Open House

April 16 - 17 - 18

See what's new at Pinehurst. Attend our Spring open house and see the latest trends in all things for outdoors. You will find inspiring ideas and creative options for flowering plants, trees, shrubs, edibles, pottery, statuary, and garden accessories.

Pruning Pointers for Trees and Shrubs

Pruning trees and shrubs may be the most feared act in gardening. Using sharp metal objects to cut away life goes against our natural inclinations. Remember that Nature is the Great Pruner. For example, when trees grow too close together, branches die as they compete for sunlight and airflow. Pruning is a vital part of gardening. Proper pruning will control growth while keeping the plant looking natural. There are some basic reasons why we prune.

To Thin:

Remove to improve. Thinning is about cutting out all dead, diseased, and injured parts to let in more air and light. Most important, thinning prevents confusion of a plant's structural line and enhances its health.

To Reduce:

Our job is to prevent certain shrubs and trees from outgrowing their position in a yard. Judicious reducing helps plants develop into sound structures without over-stressing their limbs. Also, maximum flowering and bountiful fruit are only possible by pruning.

To Rejuvenate:

It sounds harsh, but severe pruning is necessary to restore older trees and shrubs to better health. Most plants are amazingly forgiving with severe pruning. Think twice, cut once, and watch carefully.

When to Prune:

-Prune spring blooming shrubs after they bloom. They bloom on old growth.
-Prune roses in late spring. When the forsythias bloom it is the perfect time to prune roses.
-Prune summer blooming shrubs in the early spring. They bloom on new growth.

Here are some pruning pointers for late winter and early spring. Plants are dormant, but the coldest part of winter has passed, lowering the chance of cold damage near pruning cuts.

Prune butterfly bush severely. These plants bloom only on new shoots. Stimulate new growth by lopping the whole plant to within a few inches of the ground.

Potentillia can be pruned to a small round shrub. This will shape them, remove spent blooms, and keep the plant uniform and neat.

On apple and other fruit trees, cut water sprouts right to their bases. These vigorous, upright shoots soak up the plant's energy and bear few or no flowers or fruits. Remove weak twigs.

Summer blooming spirea will look and bloom better if they are sheared back in the spring. Remove all dead branches and one-third of the plant. The spring blooming varieties should be pruned in the early summer, after they bloom.

Visit the Garden Solution Center at Pinehurst for all your gardening needs.

Soil Activator

Utilize a great all purpose soil conditioning product that's great for lawns, gardens, and ornamental plantings. Read through the information below to learn the many benefits of incorporating natural carbon and humates into your soils.

GENERAL BENEFITS OF HUMATES:
Humate is a natural product and has no chemical additives.

Humate is an organic compost containing a high concentration of humic acid which is recycled back into the soil.

Humate holds nutrients in a usable form and releases them to the growing plant as needed. It stretches out the food availability between feedings.

Humate helps aerate the soil. It assists in preventing formation of large lumps and stratification of the soil.

Humate activates the decomposition of new compost and grass clippings.

Humate increases the water-holding capacity of soils. Soil containing humate resists drought more effectively and produces better yields where rainfall or irrigation may otherwise be insufficient.

Humate improves the workability of the soil. Heavy clay soils can be worked into satisfactory seed beds and marginal soils into profitable soils. Soils are more crumbly.

Humate reduces soil erosion by increasing the cohesive forces of very fine soil particle and promotes desirable drainage and water intake.

BENEFITS OF HUMATES ON YOUR LAWN:

Promotes decomposition of grass clippings and thatch, turning them into valuable soil nutrients

Improves soil structure (clay soils will become crumblier, sandy soils show improved moisture retention)

Increases availability of soil nutrients, improving plant nutrition

Enhances seed germination, emergence, and survival

Improves root development

Improves plant vigor and appearance (visual quality)

Little or no increased frequency of mowing

Makes your plants less susceptible to stress


In addition to humates, Soil Activator contains 17 other trace elements for the health of your lawn. It is a 'must' product for anyone with a mulching blade mower. Use Natural Guard Soil Activator twice a year, once with the first spring feeding and again in the fall - at a rate of 20 lb. per 2,000 sq. ft.

Sympathy flowers can be one of the most meaningful aspects of a funeral

According to a study conducted by the Virginia Polytechnic Institute, after family, friends and eulogy, flowers rank first among those who have lost a family member or friend as the most meaningful aspect of funerals. Those surveyed believe flowers and plants are a critical component of funerals, providing a necessary diversion, something to talk about and a bright environment at a somber time.

Asked to identify gifts and memorials that helped a great deal with grief, a majority of surveyed respondents named flowers and plants. Respondents also agreed strongly that looking at the cards to see who sent flowers is a comfort.

Flowers show respect for the deceased, as well as loving support of family and friends, especially when you cannot be there in person. Flowers also make for a more pleasant atmosphere, helping those present feel as comfortable and welcome as possible. With flowers at a service, you help create a lasting and beautiful memory for those who have gathered to mourn the loss of someone dear.

Even when a charity or other organization has been selected to receive financial contributions in memory of the deceased, flowers are considered by most to be an appropriate expression of additional sympathy and support.

There is a wide variety of floral tributes for every budget. Among them: bud vases, table arrangements, standing arrangements, sprays, wreaths, planters and other designs which reflect a more personal aspect of the deceased, such as favorite flowers, colors, and styles. Here, too, your professional florist can advise you.

Among floral sympathy expressions, distinctive fresh flower designs and garden basket planters are becoming increasingly popular as they may be easily transported home after the funeral to serve as a comfort to the family.

The floral staff at Pinehurst is here to help you with all your floral sympathy needs.

The Secrets to Growing Healthy House Plants

A few important things to remember will make growing plants indoor easy and fun.

Choosing easy to grow plants-

Some plants are just easier to grow than others. Growing conditions, such as water and light, are critical to the growing success of all plants, but some plants are a little more forgiving if it isn't perfect all the time. Pothos and philodendrons are great examples of easy to grow plants. They are great if you are a beginner and don't have much experience, or really busy and don't have much time or desire to fuss over plants.

Light requirements-

The environment in our homes will dictate which plants will grow lavishly or which ones will suffer. No other environmental factor is more important, in growing good plants indoors, then adequate light. Homes have different light situations. If your home faces east or west it is much easier to grow plants because there is more light available indoors. In a room with windows facing north, plants will have to be placed very close to the window to receive enough light to grow. The florescent lights found in offices are a good source of light for plants. Plants that don't require real high light can survive and grow in this environment, without any outside light.

Plants differ greatly in their light intensity requirements. Plants with highly colored leaves, such as coleus and croton, and flowering plants and succulents grow best when placed in an area where they receive full sunlight. Others, like Chinese evergreens, philodendrons, and many other foliage plants, grow well with indirect light.

Low light plants (located more then 6' from a window without indirect light or in dull hallways): Philodendron, Dracaena, peace lily, Chinese evergreen, zee zee plant, pothos, asparagus fern, schefflera, dieffenbachia, rubber plant, and ficus, to mention a few..
High light plants (within 3' of a large south, east, or west facing window): Norfolk island pine, croton, African violet, and Christmas cactus, to mention a few.

Watering-

Overwatering can be a big problem for plants. The roots have to take in oxygen just like the top of the plant. If the root zone is constantly filled with water, the oxygen is pushed out.

Water your plants well, making sure the root ball is saturated, then let them dry out between watering. If it takes 10 days or more to dry out, wait until it does. Make sure there is a drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. If the water collects in the drip tray when watering, discard the water after 30 minutes. Don't let the plant soak it back up or stand in water.

Overwatering causes root rot and will kill your plant. The symptoms of root rot are the same as if the plant were dry, it will wilt. The root system is destroyed, so the top can't get any water.

Fertilizing-

Interior plants under active growing conditions should be fertilized every two to three months. During winter months, or under conditions of low light, the frequency of fertilization should be reduced.

There are many fertilizer available for indoor plants. Most are effective and safe if used as directed. A complete fertilizer, one which contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be used. Manufacturers are required by law to indicate the fertilizer analysis on the container label. This analysis is given in a series of numbers such as 10-15-10, 20-20-20, 14-14-14. The first number of the series indicates the amount of nitrogen; the second, the amount of phosphorus; and the third, the amount of potassium.

Transplanting-

As the upper portion of a plant grows, the root system gets larger, eventually filling all the available space in the container and becoming pot bound. When this happens plant growth will be restricted unless more room for root growth is provided by repotting.

The frequency of repotting depends upon the rate of growth of a particular plant. Slow-growing plants may require repotting every two to three years, while fast-growing plants may need repotted annually.

Usually, transplant to one size larger than the pot in which the plant was previously grown. By repotting into a too large container, the roots will grow more slowing the top growth and watering is more difficult to get right. Be sure to use a good potting soil.