Winterizing Roses

Fall care for hybrid tea, Grandiflora and floribunda roses.

Understanding dormancy will help to determine the proper time to prune.
During dormancy, the sap has left the canes and the canes are simply empty tubes of cellulose. Pruning too early in the fall (before the sap runs back down into the roots) cuts some of the nutrients out, so you must be sure the plant is dormant before fall (winter) pruning. The only fall pruning I recommend is if the bush is very tall and the wind will whip it around in the winter, then prune just the very top of the bush. Winter dieback generally occurs from the end of the branches. Pruning removes the available length that can die back before reaching the ground. Pruning a semi dormant plant stimulates growth and sap flow in the pruned region.

Proper cleanup.
To prevent disease/fungus from over wintering, clean the rose bed by removing leaves and other debris. Put the leaves in the trash. Do not add them to your composting materials because the mold spores will continue to grow in a compost pile, making your compost diseased.

Why cover roses in the winter?
Winter protection is essential for our climate. It serves two functions: (1) to keep the temperature of the bush high enough to prevent winter kill and (2) low enough to keep the rose dormant and prevent active growth. Covering also prevents the sun and wind from drying and withering the canes. This is the main cause of winter damage.

Timing is important.
Covering the rose too early is unwise as it may prevent the rose from hardening properly and will slow the onset of dormancy. Covering the rose too late may risk damage from the cold.

Covering the crown on the rose bush
There are several methods of protection to choose from. If the roses are growing in a bed, cover the bed at least a foot deep with tree leaves. Do not use rose leaves. For individual roses, make a mound with soil or mulch (Soil pep is great) to cover the crown at least 12 inches. A very easy method is to use rose collars, found in the garden center at Pinehurst. Fill them with leaves or easy to use soil pep, also found at Pinehurst.

Rose Collars are easy to use.  Fill them with leaves or soil pep.

What about Easy Elegance and shrub roses?

The great Easy Elegance roses from Pinehurst and shrub roses, such as Knock Out roses, are much more hardy and require little fall and winter care, other than to make sure they have plenty of moisture.

October Gardening

Changing the garden from summer to fall presents a wonderful activity during a special time of the year. Fall gardens provide opportunities for enjoying the warm days and cool nights.




Fall is for planting
This is a great time to plant shrubs that will add beautiful fall color to your landscape. Plant new perennials, trees and shrubs. Transplant existing trees and shrubs as needed. Divide perennials and replant them, cutting back blooms and foliage.

Deep soak trees and shrubs

Healthy plants can withstand the rigors of winter. The best way to insure you have healthy plants is to make sure they have ample water in their system going into winter.

Deep soak them weekly until the ground freezes. Give special care to the trees and shrubs you planted this spring and summer. Their roots are not out in the natural soil. Make sure to get the original root ball soaked.

Fertilize your lawn

Fall is absolutely the most important time to fertilize your lawn. Fertilizing with Ferti-lome Winterizer in late fall will build a strong root system that can withstand the hazards of winter. The slow release formulation promotes a thicker lawn with minimal top growth, while your lawn stores valuable nutrients for next spring.

Keep watering your lawn
You can water less often in cool temperatures.

Mulch
Apply mulch to the soil around beds to give plants a layer of protection. This is a great way to keep the soil at an even temperature throughout the winter, reducing the chance of the freezing and thawing of the soil from causing the plants to heave out of the ground. It will also help retain moisture in the soil. The sun beating down on bare soil in the winter will dry the soil quickly, causing plants to dry out. They will thank you, come spring, by displaying healthy and hearty blooms and foliage.

Clean your garden beds from summer "leftovers"
Pull dead annuals from containers and flowerbeds. Deadhead flowers, foliage, vines and vegetables and pull annuals out of your garden bed. If you leave dead plants, you run the risk of inviting insects to nest and lay eggs, which will hatch in the spring.

Recycle Fall Leaves

Though the lawn needs less frequent mowing, it's a good idea to mow over the fallen leaves, gathering them into the mower collection bag. This chops them into smaller pieces so when you add them to the compost pile, they will break down quickly. Plus, it's an easy way to tidy up the lawn.

Add Compost

Bare soil, where annual flowers and vegetables were removed, will benefit from compost. The organic material improves soil structure and helps replace nutrients. Turn the organic amendments into the soil to a depth of 4 inches or more.

On your porch and patio

Protect your outdoor furniture and grill. Slip-on covers will protect them during the winter.

Container Gardening

Empty any clay, concrete, or ceramic planters. Soil left in fragile containers will have moisture in it the will freeze and expand, which may cause the container to crack. Make sure any container left outside over winter will not trap water. If you can't store them in a protected place, turn them upside down or cover them so water can't collect in them.

Start your day off with some green therapy

Multiple studies show that a plant-filled environment helps people relax, raises pain tolerance for people with chronic disorders, and improves moods.

Researchers at the University of Essex in England crunched the numbers on 10 mental health studies and discovered that outside activity heightens self-esteem (as well as general mood) and the biggest boost is in the first five minutes. Part of the reason could be that the scale and timelessness of nature put our more common daily concerns in their place, study coauthor Jules Pretty says.

In one week   You'll be better armed against summer colds. In a recent Japanese study, adults who visited a forest preserve on two consecutive day experienced a jump in immune activity -- as measured in blood levels of germ-fighting NK cells -- that lasted a week.

In one year   You might find yourself increasingly moved to volunteer or perform other generous acts. According to research, people who regularly immerse themselves in nature have high levels of brain activity in regions associated with altruism and love.

Get started   Having a busy schedule means the day can slip by before you enjoy any green time. Try heading outdoors before things get hectic -- say, by sipping your morning coffee or tea on the back patio. If possible, avoid squandering weekends on indoor chores.  If all else fails, bring nature inside. Even small doses--a potted plant, a bouquet of freshly cut blooms--can lift your spirits.

Starting seeds indoors

Seeds started indoors require the same basic conditions as those started outside. But since their environment must be artificially maintained, it takes a little more attentiveness. Just as for all plants, the three basic requirements are soil, light and water. But in each case there are special considerations.


It is essential that the soil you use be sterile. One of the great banes of seed growing is a fungus commonly known as Damping-off Disease. The spores of this fungi are ever present in soil and the conditions of indoor gardening seem particularly advantageous to its propagation. It can wipe out hours of hard work in a matter of days. Use a good potting soil, such as Ferti-lome potting soil.


After the potting soil has been thoroughly moistened, it can be placed in seeding trays, flats, peat pots, dixie cups, egg cartons, etc. The size of the container will depend on what type of plant you're growing, and often experience is the best gauge.


A windowsill is not a good location for starting seeds. Window sills can be the coldest place in the house, especially at night, and then the hottest during the sunny days. Most seeds need consistently warm soil to germinate and produce strong roots. You can find seeding heat mats at Pinehurst, that are great to use when germinating seeds. After the seeds have germinated, remove the heat mats, as they would cause the plants to be too hot.


Seeding tray cover To promote germination, cover the flats or pots with plastic wrap. Clear plastic grower tray covers, available at Pinehurst, are very handy to use. This keeps the planting medium both warm and moist, but must be removed as soon after the plants sprout. Otherwise, you risk suffocating your young seedlings.


At this point you will need to keep an eye on things to maintain the proper moisture. If you have a totally artificial setup, you will probably be able to predict how often you'll need to water. If you're using a sunny window sill, you'll need to watch more closely.


Plant light for growing seedlings Seedlings need a lot of light. When seedlings receive insufficient light they become tall and spindly or "leggy." Even if you have a window that receives full sun, you might need to supplement it with artificial light. If you are using only artificial light, you'll need a great deal of it and much longer growing days. Use bulbs that are specifically made for growing plants and place them just a foot or so above your seedlings. You'll want to keep these lights on at least 14 hours a day. Fluorescent tubes are ideal because they won't produce as much heat, which can quickly dry out your seedlings.


The third ingredient is moisture, and this is the one that will require the most attention. You want to keep them medium moist, but not let them become wet or soggy. Be careful when watering not to wash the seeds too deep in the soil.


It is important not to start seeds indoors too early. If they outgrow your flats or small pots, you might try thinning them and transplanting the largest to bigger pots, but for the most part you want to plant them outside just as they become large enough to survive transplanting. This is generally four to six weeks after sowing, when they have at least two sets of true leaves. In other words, if you're aiming to plant the first week of May, you probably shouldn't be starting seeds any earlier than mid-March. Toward the end of this period, you may want to provide your seedlings with a little food in the form of a weak, water-soluble fertilizer. We recomend Ferti-lone Geranium and Hanging Basket Food.