Summer Watering Tips

With summer upon us, the hotter, drier weather means your plants require more water, and your watering method can make the difference between a thriving garden or a wilting one.

General Watering Tips

* It's best to water your garden and landscape early in the morning when the temperature is cooler and the water won't evaporate.

* Late afternoon/early evening watering is also okay if the plants have ample time to dry before nightfall.

* Many people like to apply a light mist several times a day. This causes the water to evaporate quickly and encourages shallow root systems.

* Plants growing in full sun require more water than those in the shade.

* Don't overdo a good thing. Plants roots need to breath. Continually over watering causes shallow root systems, root damage, and unhealthy plants.

Newly-planted trees, shrubs, & perennials

Newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials, with roots close to the surface and not out into your native soil, require special watering. Their roots can't access the water in the native soils, so the entire root ball must be saturated on a daily basis in hot weather gradually going to every other day, depending on plant type and weather conditions. It takes at least a year before their roots grow out and can properly access the moisture in the surrounding soil.

The very best way to water is using a drip system, which delivers the water right to the root ball. Make sure the drip tubes are delivering the water to the center of the top of the root ball and not just to the side. Run the drip system daily for ample time to saturate the root ball. Drip tubes should be run long enough to deliver 2 gallons of water to shrubs and 4 gallons to trees each time it runs.

Don't rely on the spray heads of your sprinkler system or hose to deliver water to the root ball. The spray often hits the foliage and bounces off, missing the root ball and saturating the surrounding soil. When watering with a hose, deliver the water right to the root ball. Make a well or mote with the surrounding soil around the outside of the root ball to trap the water so it will soak straight down. Turn the water pressure down to let it slowly deep soak. Make sure the top of the root ball is exposed and not covered by your native soil. It's okay to apply mulch over the root ball.

As the weather cools down, later this fall, water the same, but less often. Gradually go from daily to 3 times a week and finally to once a week in very cool weather. Remember to water late in the fall, right up until the weather is extremely cold. If you have turned off your sprinkler system, drag out your hose. If we have a warm, dry winter give your plants an occasional deep soaking to prevent winter loss and damage.

Established tree, shrubs, & perennials

Because older plants have established root systems, they should not need to be watered daily. Drip systems can be run 3 times a week. Drip tubes should be run long enough to deliver 2 gallons of water to shrubs and 4 gallons to trees each time it runs. Sprinklers, both automatic and hose-end, should run accordingly.

As the weather cools, continue to water the same, but less often, going from 3 times per week to 2, and eventually to 1 deep soak a week in very cool weather. Continue to water until the weather is extremely cold. As with newly planted plants and trees, be aware plants may need watered during the winter if the temperatures are warm and the ground is dry.

Lawn Watering

Lawns should be watered on a regular basis during hot weather. It is always better to water longer, but less often. Watering everyday promotes a shallow root system, which is not a good situation. By allowing the top soil to dry between grass, roots will grow deeper in the soil to find the water. This will promote a better lawn.

Apply 1/2 inch of water at each watering. Test sprinkler heads by placing a straight sided container on the lawn. An empty tuna fish can works great for this. Allow it to fill to 1/2 inch to determine how long to run that station on your sprinkler system. Spray heads put out a lot more water then large rotor heads. Some stations may only run a short time and others may require up to one hour or more. As the weather cools you may need to adjust the time. This also applies if you are watering with a hose.

In hot weather you may need to run the system three times per week. As the weather cools in the fall or in the spring, two times per week will work, gradually decreasing to once a week.

If there are areas in your lawn that will not green up, no matter how much you water, you should check for lawn insects. Dry spotting is what their damage appears like. Learn more about lawn insect damage.

Signs you are Under-Watering:

•Soil is dry
•Leaves curl
•Older leaves turn yellow or brown, and drop off.
•Blossoms wilt

Signs you are Over-Watering:

•Soil is constantly damp
•Leaves turn a lighter shade of green or turn yellow
•Young shoots are wilted
•Leaves are green yet brittle
•Algae and mushrooms are growing

Winterizing Roses

Fall care for hybrid tea, Grandiflora and floribunda roses.

Understanding dormancy will help to determine the proper time to prune.
During dormancy, the sap has left the canes and the canes are simply empty tubes of cellulose. Pruning too early in the fall (before the sap runs back down into the roots) cuts some of the nutrients out, so you must be sure the plant is dormant before fall (winter) pruning. The only fall pruning I recommend is if the bush is very tall and the wind will whip it around in the winter, then prune just the very top of the bush. Winter dieback generally occurs from the end of the branches. Pruning removes the available length that can die back before reaching the ground. Pruning a semi dormant plant stimulates growth and sap flow in the pruned region.

Proper cleanup.
To prevent disease/fungus from over wintering, clean the rose bed by removing leaves and other debris. Put the leaves in the trash. Do not add them to your composting materials because the mold spores will continue to grow in a compost pile, making your compost diseased.

Why cover roses in the winter?
Winter protection is essential for our climate. It serves two functions: (1) to keep the temperature of the bush high enough to prevent winter kill and (2) low enough to keep the rose dormant and prevent active growth. Covering also prevents the sun and wind from drying and withering the canes. This is the main cause of winter damage.

Timing is important.
Covering the rose too early is unwise as it may prevent the rose from hardening properly and will slow the onset of dormancy. Covering the rose too late may risk damage from the cold.

Covering the crown on the rose bush
There are several methods of protection to choose from. If the roses are growing in a bed, cover the bed at least a foot deep with tree leaves. Do not use rose leaves. For individual roses, make a mound with soil or mulch (Soil pep is great) to cover the crown at least 12 inches. A very easy method is to use rose collars, found in the garden center at Pinehurst. Fill them with leaves or easy to use soil pep, also found at Pinehurst.

Rose Collars are easy to use.  Fill them with leaves or soil pep.

What about Easy Elegance and shrub roses?

The great Easy Elegance roses from Pinehurst and shrub roses, such as Knock Out roses, are much more hardy and require little fall and winter care, other than to make sure they have plenty of moisture.

October Gardening

Changing the garden from summer to fall presents a wonderful activity during a special time of the year. Fall gardens provide opportunities for enjoying the warm days and cool nights.




Fall is for planting
This is a great time to plant shrubs that will add beautiful fall color to your landscape. Plant new perennials, trees and shrubs. Transplant existing trees and shrubs as needed. Divide perennials and replant them, cutting back blooms and foliage.

Deep soak trees and shrubs

Healthy plants can withstand the rigors of winter. The best way to insure you have healthy plants is to make sure they have ample water in their system going into winter.

Deep soak them weekly until the ground freezes. Give special care to the trees and shrubs you planted this spring and summer. Their roots are not out in the natural soil. Make sure to get the original root ball soaked.

Fertilize your lawn

Fall is absolutely the most important time to fertilize your lawn. Fertilizing with Ferti-lome Winterizer in late fall will build a strong root system that can withstand the hazards of winter. The slow release formulation promotes a thicker lawn with minimal top growth, while your lawn stores valuable nutrients for next spring.

Keep watering your lawn
You can water less often in cool temperatures.

Mulch
Apply mulch to the soil around beds to give plants a layer of protection. This is a great way to keep the soil at an even temperature throughout the winter, reducing the chance of the freezing and thawing of the soil from causing the plants to heave out of the ground. It will also help retain moisture in the soil. The sun beating down on bare soil in the winter will dry the soil quickly, causing plants to dry out. They will thank you, come spring, by displaying healthy and hearty blooms and foliage.

Clean your garden beds from summer "leftovers"
Pull dead annuals from containers and flowerbeds. Deadhead flowers, foliage, vines and vegetables and pull annuals out of your garden bed. If you leave dead plants, you run the risk of inviting insects to nest and lay eggs, which will hatch in the spring.

Recycle Fall Leaves

Though the lawn needs less frequent mowing, it's a good idea to mow over the fallen leaves, gathering them into the mower collection bag. This chops them into smaller pieces so when you add them to the compost pile, they will break down quickly. Plus, it's an easy way to tidy up the lawn.

Add Compost

Bare soil, where annual flowers and vegetables were removed, will benefit from compost. The organic material improves soil structure and helps replace nutrients. Turn the organic amendments into the soil to a depth of 4 inches or more.

On your porch and patio

Protect your outdoor furniture and grill. Slip-on covers will protect them during the winter.

Container Gardening

Empty any clay, concrete, or ceramic planters. Soil left in fragile containers will have moisture in it the will freeze and expand, which may cause the container to crack. Make sure any container left outside over winter will not trap water. If you can't store them in a protected place, turn them upside down or cover them so water can't collect in them.

Start your day off with some green therapy

Multiple studies show that a plant-filled environment helps people relax, raises pain tolerance for people with chronic disorders, and improves moods.

Researchers at the University of Essex in England crunched the numbers on 10 mental health studies and discovered that outside activity heightens self-esteem (as well as general mood) and the biggest boost is in the first five minutes. Part of the reason could be that the scale and timelessness of nature put our more common daily concerns in their place, study coauthor Jules Pretty says.

In one week   You'll be better armed against summer colds. In a recent Japanese study, adults who visited a forest preserve on two consecutive day experienced a jump in immune activity -- as measured in blood levels of germ-fighting NK cells -- that lasted a week.

In one year   You might find yourself increasingly moved to volunteer or perform other generous acts. According to research, people who regularly immerse themselves in nature have high levels of brain activity in regions associated with altruism and love.

Get started   Having a busy schedule means the day can slip by before you enjoy any green time. Try heading outdoors before things get hectic -- say, by sipping your morning coffee or tea on the back patio. If possible, avoid squandering weekends on indoor chores.  If all else fails, bring nature inside. Even small doses--a potted plant, a bouquet of freshly cut blooms--can lift your spirits.

Starting seeds indoors

Seeds started indoors require the same basic conditions as those started outside. But since their environment must be artificially maintained, it takes a little more attentiveness. Just as for all plants, the three basic requirements are soil, light and water. But in each case there are special considerations.


It is essential that the soil you use be sterile. One of the great banes of seed growing is a fungus commonly known as Damping-off Disease. The spores of this fungi are ever present in soil and the conditions of indoor gardening seem particularly advantageous to its propagation. It can wipe out hours of hard work in a matter of days. Use a good potting soil, such as Ferti-lome potting soil.


After the potting soil has been thoroughly moistened, it can be placed in seeding trays, flats, peat pots, dixie cups, egg cartons, etc. The size of the container will depend on what type of plant you're growing, and often experience is the best gauge.


A windowsill is not a good location for starting seeds. Window sills can be the coldest place in the house, especially at night, and then the hottest during the sunny days. Most seeds need consistently warm soil to germinate and produce strong roots. You can find seeding heat mats at Pinehurst, that are great to use when germinating seeds. After the seeds have germinated, remove the heat mats, as they would cause the plants to be too hot.


Seeding tray cover To promote germination, cover the flats or pots with plastic wrap. Clear plastic grower tray covers, available at Pinehurst, are very handy to use. This keeps the planting medium both warm and moist, but must be removed as soon after the plants sprout. Otherwise, you risk suffocating your young seedlings.


At this point you will need to keep an eye on things to maintain the proper moisture. If you have a totally artificial setup, you will probably be able to predict how often you'll need to water. If you're using a sunny window sill, you'll need to watch more closely.


Plant light for growing seedlings Seedlings need a lot of light. When seedlings receive insufficient light they become tall and spindly or "leggy." Even if you have a window that receives full sun, you might need to supplement it with artificial light. If you are using only artificial light, you'll need a great deal of it and much longer growing days. Use bulbs that are specifically made for growing plants and place them just a foot or so above your seedlings. You'll want to keep these lights on at least 14 hours a day. Fluorescent tubes are ideal because they won't produce as much heat, which can quickly dry out your seedlings.


The third ingredient is moisture, and this is the one that will require the most attention. You want to keep them medium moist, but not let them become wet or soggy. Be careful when watering not to wash the seeds too deep in the soil.


It is important not to start seeds indoors too early. If they outgrow your flats or small pots, you might try thinning them and transplanting the largest to bigger pots, but for the most part you want to plant them outside just as they become large enough to survive transplanting. This is generally four to six weeks after sowing, when they have at least two sets of true leaves. In other words, if you're aiming to plant the first week of May, you probably shouldn't be starting seeds any earlier than mid-March. Toward the end of this period, you may want to provide your seedlings with a little food in the form of a weak, water-soluble fertilizer. We recomend Ferti-lone Geranium and Hanging Basket Food.

Five Easy Decorating Ideas

1. Welcome them at the front door with a beautiful, festive wreath. You can choose from permanent, that will last for years, or a fresh, fragrant wreath. Our fresh wreaths are dipped in a preservative to make them last longer. We have a great selection of both permanent and fresh wreaths to choose from. Use a garland of greens to frame the entry. Add lights to make the garland sparkle. Attach a festive bow to your porch light to match the one on your wreath.


2. The mantle is the focal point of the living room. The beautiful and realistic permanent holiday greens available today are perfect for decorating the mantle. They won't dry out and are easy to shape just how you want them. Add a few candles, berries, ribbon, and old world Santas. Place poinsettias at the base of the hearth on both sides to add a lot of color. Be sure to move them away when you are using the fire place.



3. When decorating the Christmas tree, string the lights starting at the trunk and work your way out to the end of the branch and back in. Your tree will be beautiful and the stings of the lights will be hidden. Place decoration throughout the tree, not just out on the ends of the branches. Balls, bows and ornaments placed deep in the tree add depth, making the tree look much fuller. Hang all of the same kind, size, and color of an ornament or ball at a time, such as all the small red balls, to ensure they are evenly distributed throughout the tree.



4. A beautiful center piece is perfect for your dining room table. Choose from a fresh, fragrant arrangement or a permanent design that will last for years to come. Add festive, coordinating place mats and candles and your dining experience will capture the magical feel of the holidays.



5. Bring the holiday celebration into every room. Kitchens and bathrooms are a great place to put scented candles and smaller seasonal knickknacks, such a Santa and whimsical snowmen. Place a small poinsettia next to the kitchen or bathroom sink. Use simple permanent branches of greens to lay on a bathroom or kitchen counter, end table and night stand. You can add a few berries or ribbon.

Fall Gardening

Fall, the most important season in the garden

Spring seems to get all of the attention, which is understandable because everyone is anxious to be finished with winter and get back out into the garden.

Fall has traditionally been viewed as the end of the line, basically time to pick the tomatoes and rake leaves before everything freezes. In reality though, fall is the most important season in the garden.

Spring is a growth season, while fall is an establishment season. In spring, you get amazing foliage growth and flowering, while in fall you get spectacular root growth and an extended period of time to settle in.

Fall means a second chance for gardeners to do all those things we didn't get around to in the spring. If you feel the urge to work in the garden, but are not quite sure what to do, this reminder list should help. Enjoy the process.

Planting . . . Planting hardy trees, shrubs and perennials in the fall gives you much stronger and better established plants the next spring or summer. Be sure not to plant too deep. The cooler weather of fall creates a perfect opportunity for plants to establish in a low stress environment.

Clean it Up . . . Fall cleanup is an important endeavor, and is necessary to keep your yard running at top speed. Just remember that whatever you don't clean up now will still be waiting for you in the spring, and will probably be much more difficult to deal with. As perennial plants begin to die back for the winter, clean up old stalks and foliage that are no longer serving an ornamental purpose. Pull up and discard the annuals as they die back.

Give your trees a boost with tree nutrition . . . As the temperatures cool, and even after trees lose their leaves, tree roots are in their most active growth period. Give your trees and shrubs a nutrient boost about one month after the first killing frost, but before the soil freezes.

Weed Control . . . Little fall weeds become big spring weeds. Many of our common lawn weeds sprout in the fall, grow a healthy root system in the winter, and then explode in the spring. By applying weed killer in the fall, you can get many weeds when they are young, before they become difficult to eradicate.

Water trees and shrubs . . . Plants, especially evergreens, should be well hydrated entering winter. Deep soak them weekly until the ground freezes.

Rake leaves. . . Rake leaves and other debris from your lawn, making your yard more attractive. Moreover, removing leaves and debris prevents mold and other diseases from forming over the winter months. A thick layer of leaves can create a dense blanket over the lawn, keeping it from "breathing" and growing into its full potential. An easy way to remove fallen leaves is to spread the leaves out and mow them with a mulching mower. Mow again, this time bagging the chopped grass and leaves. Put the grass and leaves on your garden and till or turn them in. This is a great source of organic material.

For Beautiful Roses . . . Deep soak weekly up until the ground freezes. After the leaves fall off the trees is the time to winterize your rose bushes. Remove any diseased leaves from or around the plants and discard in the garbage. Mound soil, compost, soil pep or tree leaves 12"-14" deep on the base of each bush. Rose collars from Pinehurst are an easy way to keep the mulch up around the stems. Don't prune or fertilize roses until late spring.

Take time to relax and enjoy the beautiful warm days of fall in your yard.

For all your gardening needs visit Pinehurst Floral & Greenhouse at 4101 Poleline Rd., Pocatello, ID, and pinehurstfloralandgreenhouse.com.