Go GREEN with a Living

A living Christmas tree requires some additional care, but the benefits are enormous!


What a great way to decorate your home for the holidays, as well as add to your landscaping. Here are a few easy steps to follow.


-Living Christmas trees should be left inside only a week to 10 days. The warm temperatures of your home will bring the tree out of dormancy and it will start to grow. This would be detrimental to the tree.


-Transition the evergreen tree into and out of your home. Going from cold temperatures into a heated home needs to happen gradually. First, place the tree in a temperature shelter, such as a garage, for several days, then into the house for a week to 10 days. Reverse the process after 10 days until the tree is finally outside.

-The root ball of your living Christmas tree needs to be kept moist, not over-watered nor allowed to dry out.

-Trees can be planted after they are moved back outside as long as you can dig a hole. You can pre-dig the hole now, before the ground freezes and cover it with mulch for later planting. If planting is not possible in January, place the tree where it will be protected from the harsh winds and water it throughout the winter as needed, remembering that the branches will shed off any rain from getting into the pot.

Pinehurst has a great selection of living trees in all sizes. They are also great to use as an accent by your front door. Enjoy it for Christmas then watch it grow and add beauty to your landscape.

The Magic of Autumn Colors

How does autumn color happen?

Three factors influence autumn leaf color-leaf pigments, length of night, and weather, but not quite in the way we think. The timing of color change and leaf fall are primarily regulated by the calendar, that is, the increasing length of night. As days grow shorter, and nights grow longer and cooler, biochemical processes in the leaf begin to paint the landscape with Nature's autumn palette.


Where do autumn colors come from?

There are several factors that affect the brilliance of fall foliage. Color development in trees and shrubs are determined by both genetics and environmental conditions. We're fortunate to have sunny days and cool nights, which prompt bright yellow and orange hues. Additionally, drier soils, with high iron content, help bring on more intense colors. The absence of hard freezes also means a more colorful and long-lasting foliage show.

Have you ever noticed how much more showy the aspen foliage is in the mountains compared to aspen leaves in lower-elevation, metropolitan landscapes? Higher elevations have greater sunlight intensity and much cooler nights. Mountain soils generally are drier and drain water better than the clay soils common in home landscapes. Plus most gardeners provide additional irrigation to lawns and surrounding areas. Whereas home landscape soils are alkaline, high country soils are usually more acidic, which makes iron more available to the trees and shrubs.

Leaves are green because of the substance known as chlorophyll, a complex pigment needed for photosynthesis. As days shorten in late summer and early fall (and night temperatures cool down), synthesis of chlorophyll comes to a halt, and enzymes and sunlight break down the remaining chlorophyll in the foliage. A transformation occurs as this chlorophyll breaks down and other colorful pigments become more apparent.

The Reds

The scarlet colors are made in the leaves late in summer from sugars that are trapped in the leaf tissues and converted into a pigment called anthocyanin. This pigment is water-soluble and can be washed out. Therefore, if there is a rainy period during this time of transformation, the red coloration will be diminished.

The Yellows

Yellow is a leaf's basic color, present from the beginning. All summer long it has been masked by the green chlorophyll. With shortening days and the cessation of chlorophyll, the yellow pigments, including xanthophyll and carotenoids, are revealed. These pigments, and the tannins, that give the russet and brown colors, are least affected by rainfall.

Certain colors are characteristic of particular species. Oaks turn red, brown, or russet; aspen and poplar, golden yellow; and beech, light tan. Maples differ by species. Sugar maples display the most brilliant fall color, but will not grow in our alkaline soils. Leaves of some species such as the elms simply shrivel up and fall, exhibiting little color other than drab brown.

The timing of the color change also varies by species. The differences in timing among species seem to be genetically inherited.


How does weather affect autumn color?

The amount and brilliance of the colors that develop in any particular autumn season are related to weather conditions that occur before and during the time the chlorophyll in the leaves is dwindling. Temperature and moisture are the main influences.

A succession of warm, sunny days and cool, crisp but not freezing nights seems to bring about the most spectacular color displays. During these days, lots of sugars are produced in the leaf but the cool nights and the gradual closing of veins going into the leaf prevent these sugars from moving out. These conditions-lots of sugar and lots of light-spur production of the brilliant anthocyanin pigments, which tint reds, purples, and crimson. Because carotenoids are always present in leaves, the yellow and gold colors remain fairly constant from year to year.

The amount of moisture in the soil also affects autumn colors. Like the weather, soil moisture varies greatly from year to year. The countless combinations of these two highly variable factors assure that no two autumns can be exactly alike. A late spring, or a severe summer drought, can delay the onset of fall color by a few weeks. A warm period during fall will also lower the intensity of autumn colors. A warm wet spring, favorable summer weather, and warm sunny fall days with cool nights should produce the most brilliant autumn colors.

Is it time to makeover your landscape?

Let us show you the possibilities.

Maybe you need a complete overhaul or just a few minor adjustments. Your landscape should bring out the best of your home. You can get the assistance you need from a professional landscape designer. You can do the planting yourself or arrange for our planting service.

Before shrubs had over grown the front of this home, hiding it's beauty.


Free 30-minute In Store Landscape Consultation

Get all your landscape questions answered.

Bring photos and dimensions of your area of concern. Call and schedule your 30 minute, free, in store, landscape consultation.


One Hour in Home Consultation

You can have a knowledgeable horticulturist and landscape designer visit your home for an informative one hour session. A sketch of your home will show the possibilities properly planted landscape will do for your home.
Cost is $50 per hour in the Pocatello area.

Call 237-6522 to schedule your consultation.

Don't Lose Your Tomatoes to Blossom End Rot

Blossom-end rot is a disorder of tomatoes and peppers. Losses can vary from a small area to more than half the fruit.

Symptoms

The first symptom is a slight water-soaked area on or near the blossom end of the fruit. The affected area soon darkens and enlarges in a constantly widening circle until the fruit begins to ripen. The tissues are dark and shrunken and have a dry, leathery appearance. With peppers, the rot is tan in color and should not be confused with sunscald, which is white.

Cause

Blossom end rot is caused by a lack of calcium in the developing fruit. This may be due to a lack of calcium uptake from the soil or to extreme fluctuations in water supply.

Control

After tomatoes are planted and fruit has started to grow, good results have been obtained by spraying the foliage and fruit with Ferti- lome Yield Booster Blossom-End Rot Spray. Make applications every 7 to 10 days. Application should be done while temperatures are cool in the morning.

Moisture supply plays a critical part in calcium uptake and distribution within the plant. Calcium dissolves in water and moves from the soil into the roots and up the stems into the leaves and fruits. This water and calcium solution replaces moisture as it transpires (evaporates) from the leaves and fruits. The fruits have a high demand for calcium, but the leaves receive more because they have a higher transpiration rate. Supplying water to plants after they come under drought stress only partially relieves the situation since most of the calcium moves into the leaves rather than the fruit. In order to avoid this condition, adequate levels of soil moisture must be maintained consistently during the growing season.

Since blossom-end rot is so closely related to extremes in the water supply, an important aid in control is to regulate moisture supply in the soil. If cultivation is necessary to control weeds, it should be shallow to avoid root pruning. Mulching, which serves to maintain an even supply of soil moisture, should be practiced. To reemphasize, either an inadequate or excess moisture stress favors blossom-end rot development. In general, plants need at least one inch of water per week.

Removing affected fruits when symptoms are first observed may be worthwhile for subsequent development of other fruit on the plant. This is particularly recommended for tomatoes.

The use of Ferti-lome Yield Booster Blossom-End Rot Spray will help stop damage caused by calcium induced Blossom-End Rot and can help your tomato plants produce larger, firmer fruit for bigger, more productive yields.


Visit the garden solutions center at Pinehurst Floral & Greenhouse for all your gardening needs.

Improve Your Curb Appeal

When landscaping in the growing season, it's easy to forget what it's going to look like during the other eight months of the year. With a little planning you can have a beautiful landscape year round. A bonus of planting with year round beauty in mind is making your landscaping more maintenance free. You are not starting from scratch each spring.

Your home is a huge investment. Well designed landscaping adds value. If you should sell your home it will make a huge difference, especially if you need to sell in months other than the summer.

According to Money Magazine, "landscaping adds more value than almost any other home renovation." It also advised homeowners that even if they aren't planning a move right away, "landscaping is the one home improvement that actually appreciates over time."

If your front yard is lacking curb appeal, we can help.

Make a mental note and take a few pictures of your home. Bring the pictures in and we will be glad to help you make some adjustments to your landscaping that will give you 12 months of "Curb Appeal".

Call to schedule your FREE 30 minute landscape idea consultation or better yet, arrange for our landscape professional to personally visit your home and answer all your gardening and landscaping questions for just $50 per hour in the Pocatello area.

With your dreams and an expert plan of action, this can be your best landscape season!
Call 237-6522 today!

Easy Steps to Growing Beautiful Roses

Growing hybrid tea, grandiflora, and floribunda roses can be easy. There are a few things that are pretty important to ensure your success.

This first thing is the soil. Roses grow best in good soil. Soil that has had organic matter, such as compost and soil pep (ground bark), added, works the best. In Pocatello, Idaho, our soils are very clay, with little room for air in the soil and when dry it is hard, making it hard for the roots to grow. The organic matter makes the soil looser, as well as more fertile. If your roses are already planted, you can improve the soil by applying 2-3" of compost or soil pep and gently working it into the soil, being careful not to disturb the roots. Also apply soil activator (humates) to the soil. This helps loosen the soil, making the fertilizers work better and it feeds the soil.

Roses need at least five hours of sun a day to grow, so choose a sunny location with good air circulation.

When planting, bury the graft 3 inches below the soil surface for added winter protection.

Roses like a good, deep soak to promote deep rooting and they will actually develop drought tolerance if established this way. Frequent light waterings promote shallow roots, which you do not want. If overhead watering, it is best to water in the morning, so the foliage will be dry by night. Using a soaker hose or drip irrigation to water, can be done any time of the day.

Roses are heavy feeders - it takes a lot of energy to produce all those large, magnificent blooms! I recommend using Ferti-lome Rose Food, containing systemic insecticide the first of every month, May through August. August 1st should be the last time you fertilize in a season. The plants need to begin to harden off for winter.

Insects that commonly attack roses are thrips, aphids, and spidermites. By using Ferti-lome Rose Food plus systemic insecticide you can prevent their damage. An occasional out break of aphids is easily controlled with Ferti-lome Triple Action in a handy ready to use bottle.

The three rose diseases are blackspot, powdery mildew, and rust, all of which are types of fungus. Blackspot occurs during humid or rainy weather or where watering (especially overhead) is excessive. Powdery mildew prefers warm days and cool nights, crowded plantings or damp, shady areas. Rust develops on moist foliage. Proper rose culture, including plenty of sun, sufficient air circulation, proper watering, and sanitation (disposing of old leaves and other debris), will minimize all three disease problems, but they may still occur. If detected early and treated with a fungicide (organic or chemical), none of these will spread out of control. You can easily grow roses and never have to treat them for any diseases with proper planting and care.

Most modern roses will bloom all summer if properly groomed. "Deadheading" refers to the process of removing old or spent flowers from the bush. Proper trimming ensures strong reblooming. By deadheading roses instead of allowing them to form seed hips, you're signaling the plant to produce more flowers. Rose leaves develop in sets of three, five, even seven or nine leaflets. Prune just above a set of five leaves for quickest reblooming.

Winter care should take place very late in the fall, after the ground becomes cold and may even start to freeze. You don't want to trap the warmth in the soil. Mound soil, compost, or leaves (from the trees, not from the roses), up to 15" to 17" high on the canes. This will keep the soil uniformly cold in the winter and keep the rose dormant.

Spring care begins in late spring. When the forsythias are in bloom, remove the mounded protection and prune the roses. Pruning encourages growth and by doing this too early in the spring will leave the new growth susceptible to a late frost.

This is a great time to plant roses. Check out the great selection of beautiful, healthy roses at Pinehurst.

Spring Open House

April 16 - 17 - 18

See what's new at Pinehurst. Attend our Spring open house and see the latest trends in all things for outdoors. You will find inspiring ideas and creative options for flowering plants, trees, shrubs, edibles, pottery, statuary, and garden accessories.

Pruning Pointers for Trees and Shrubs

Pruning trees and shrubs may be the most feared act in gardening. Using sharp metal objects to cut away life goes against our natural inclinations. Remember that Nature is the Great Pruner. For example, when trees grow too close together, branches die as they compete for sunlight and airflow. Pruning is a vital part of gardening. Proper pruning will control growth while keeping the plant looking natural. There are some basic reasons why we prune.

To Thin:

Remove to improve. Thinning is about cutting out all dead, diseased, and injured parts to let in more air and light. Most important, thinning prevents confusion of a plant's structural line and enhances its health.

To Reduce:

Our job is to prevent certain shrubs and trees from outgrowing their position in a yard. Judicious reducing helps plants develop into sound structures without over-stressing their limbs. Also, maximum flowering and bountiful fruit are only possible by pruning.

To Rejuvenate:

It sounds harsh, but severe pruning is necessary to restore older trees and shrubs to better health. Most plants are amazingly forgiving with severe pruning. Think twice, cut once, and watch carefully.

When to Prune:

-Prune spring blooming shrubs after they bloom. They bloom on old growth.
-Prune roses in late spring. When the forsythias bloom it is the perfect time to prune roses.
-Prune summer blooming shrubs in the early spring. They bloom on new growth.

Here are some pruning pointers for late winter and early spring. Plants are dormant, but the coldest part of winter has passed, lowering the chance of cold damage near pruning cuts.

Prune butterfly bush severely. These plants bloom only on new shoots. Stimulate new growth by lopping the whole plant to within a few inches of the ground.

Potentillia can be pruned to a small round shrub. This will shape them, remove spent blooms, and keep the plant uniform and neat.

On apple and other fruit trees, cut water sprouts right to their bases. These vigorous, upright shoots soak up the plant's energy and bear few or no flowers or fruits. Remove weak twigs.

Summer blooming spirea will look and bloom better if they are sheared back in the spring. Remove all dead branches and one-third of the plant. The spring blooming varieties should be pruned in the early summer, after they bloom.

Visit the Garden Solution Center at Pinehurst for all your gardening needs.

Soil Activator

Utilize a great all purpose soil conditioning product that's great for lawns, gardens, and ornamental plantings. Read through the information below to learn the many benefits of incorporating natural carbon and humates into your soils.

GENERAL BENEFITS OF HUMATES:
Humate is a natural product and has no chemical additives.

Humate is an organic compost containing a high concentration of humic acid which is recycled back into the soil.

Humate holds nutrients in a usable form and releases them to the growing plant as needed. It stretches out the food availability between feedings.

Humate helps aerate the soil. It assists in preventing formation of large lumps and stratification of the soil.

Humate activates the decomposition of new compost and grass clippings.

Humate increases the water-holding capacity of soils. Soil containing humate resists drought more effectively and produces better yields where rainfall or irrigation may otherwise be insufficient.

Humate improves the workability of the soil. Heavy clay soils can be worked into satisfactory seed beds and marginal soils into profitable soils. Soils are more crumbly.

Humate reduces soil erosion by increasing the cohesive forces of very fine soil particle and promotes desirable drainage and water intake.

BENEFITS OF HUMATES ON YOUR LAWN:

Promotes decomposition of grass clippings and thatch, turning them into valuable soil nutrients

Improves soil structure (clay soils will become crumblier, sandy soils show improved moisture retention)

Increases availability of soil nutrients, improving plant nutrition

Enhances seed germination, emergence, and survival

Improves root development

Improves plant vigor and appearance (visual quality)

Little or no increased frequency of mowing

Makes your plants less susceptible to stress


In addition to humates, Soil Activator contains 17 other trace elements for the health of your lawn. It is a 'must' product for anyone with a mulching blade mower. Use Natural Guard Soil Activator twice a year, once with the first spring feeding and again in the fall - at a rate of 20 lb. per 2,000 sq. ft.

Sympathy flowers can be one of the most meaningful aspects of a funeral

According to a study conducted by the Virginia Polytechnic Institute, after family, friends and eulogy, flowers rank first among those who have lost a family member or friend as the most meaningful aspect of funerals. Those surveyed believe flowers and plants are a critical component of funerals, providing a necessary diversion, something to talk about and a bright environment at a somber time.

Asked to identify gifts and memorials that helped a great deal with grief, a majority of surveyed respondents named flowers and plants. Respondents also agreed strongly that looking at the cards to see who sent flowers is a comfort.

Flowers show respect for the deceased, as well as loving support of family and friends, especially when you cannot be there in person. Flowers also make for a more pleasant atmosphere, helping those present feel as comfortable and welcome as possible. With flowers at a service, you help create a lasting and beautiful memory for those who have gathered to mourn the loss of someone dear.

Even when a charity or other organization has been selected to receive financial contributions in memory of the deceased, flowers are considered by most to be an appropriate expression of additional sympathy and support.

There is a wide variety of floral tributes for every budget. Among them: bud vases, table arrangements, standing arrangements, sprays, wreaths, planters and other designs which reflect a more personal aspect of the deceased, such as favorite flowers, colors, and styles. Here, too, your professional florist can advise you.

Among floral sympathy expressions, distinctive fresh flower designs and garden basket planters are becoming increasingly popular as they may be easily transported home after the funeral to serve as a comfort to the family.

The floral staff at Pinehurst is here to help you with all your floral sympathy needs.

The Secrets to Growing Healthy House Plants

A few important things to remember will make growing plants indoor easy and fun.

Choosing easy to grow plants-

Some plants are just easier to grow than others. Growing conditions, such as water and light, are critical to the growing success of all plants, but some plants are a little more forgiving if it isn't perfect all the time. Pothos and philodendrons are great examples of easy to grow plants. They are great if you are a beginner and don't have much experience, or really busy and don't have much time or desire to fuss over plants.

Light requirements-

The environment in our homes will dictate which plants will grow lavishly or which ones will suffer. No other environmental factor is more important, in growing good plants indoors, then adequate light. Homes have different light situations. If your home faces east or west it is much easier to grow plants because there is more light available indoors. In a room with windows facing north, plants will have to be placed very close to the window to receive enough light to grow. The florescent lights found in offices are a good source of light for plants. Plants that don't require real high light can survive and grow in this environment, without any outside light.

Plants differ greatly in their light intensity requirements. Plants with highly colored leaves, such as coleus and croton, and flowering plants and succulents grow best when placed in an area where they receive full sunlight. Others, like Chinese evergreens, philodendrons, and many other foliage plants, grow well with indirect light.

Low light plants (located more then 6' from a window without indirect light or in dull hallways): Philodendron, Dracaena, peace lily, Chinese evergreen, zee zee plant, pothos, asparagus fern, schefflera, dieffenbachia, rubber plant, and ficus, to mention a few..
High light plants (within 3' of a large south, east, or west facing window): Norfolk island pine, croton, African violet, and Christmas cactus, to mention a few.

Watering-

Overwatering can be a big problem for plants. The roots have to take in oxygen just like the top of the plant. If the root zone is constantly filled with water, the oxygen is pushed out.

Water your plants well, making sure the root ball is saturated, then let them dry out between watering. If it takes 10 days or more to dry out, wait until it does. Make sure there is a drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. If the water collects in the drip tray when watering, discard the water after 30 minutes. Don't let the plant soak it back up or stand in water.

Overwatering causes root rot and will kill your plant. The symptoms of root rot are the same as if the plant were dry, it will wilt. The root system is destroyed, so the top can't get any water.

Fertilizing-

Interior plants under active growing conditions should be fertilized every two to three months. During winter months, or under conditions of low light, the frequency of fertilization should be reduced.

There are many fertilizer available for indoor plants. Most are effective and safe if used as directed. A complete fertilizer, one which contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be used. Manufacturers are required by law to indicate the fertilizer analysis on the container label. This analysis is given in a series of numbers such as 10-15-10, 20-20-20, 14-14-14. The first number of the series indicates the amount of nitrogen; the second, the amount of phosphorus; and the third, the amount of potassium.

Transplanting-

As the upper portion of a plant grows, the root system gets larger, eventually filling all the available space in the container and becoming pot bound. When this happens plant growth will be restricted unless more room for root growth is provided by repotting.

The frequency of repotting depends upon the rate of growth of a particular plant. Slow-growing plants may require repotting every two to three years, while fast-growing plants may need repotted annually.

Usually, transplant to one size larger than the pot in which the plant was previously grown. By repotting into a too large container, the roots will grow more slowing the top growth and watering is more difficult to get right. Be sure to use a good potting soil.

Growing healthy, insect free, house plants

By taking a few simple precautions, you can lessen the chances of insects attacking your plants considerably...

~Always use clean pots and planters when repotting.
~Always use sterile potting soil. Using garden soil can have disastrous effects.
~Isolate any new plants for a month or so, and check them frequently for signs of insects or disease. This also applies to any of your plants that may have been outside for the summer.
~Promptly remove dead flowers or leaves from plants, and isolate any plants you suspect may be infested..
~Give your plant a bath now and then with a soft cloth and a little soapy lukewarm water.
~Examine your plants now and then, don't wait for them to start looking sad. Use a magnifying glass to look for mites.
~Proper feeding, care and fresh air make a healthy plant which is more resistant to insect problems.

The insects encountered the most often are spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, scale, whitefly, and many soil dwelling insects. If the problem is found early enough, it can often be taken care without the use of insecticides, and that is, by far, the best way.

It is very important to read the instructions and warnings that the manufacturer puts on the label of an insecticide, especially the warning that says to use outdoors in a well ventilated area! Some pesticides, which control insects, can actually kill certain plants. Be sure that you are using the right product for the insect you have. Don't spray your plant once and forget it, check every week or so for signs of the return of the bug. Any single pesticide does not usually kill all pests and repeat applications are usually necessary. When used properly most chemicals are tested and safe to use.

Aphids are common house plant insects but fortunately, easily controlled. Aphids suck sap from the plant and can cause new growth to be stunted and distorted. Aphids may be just about any color and are found on new growth and on the underside of the leaves, usually clustered together in a group. Heavy infestations cover the plant with a sticky honeydew. Aphids can be controlled with pyrethrins and pyrethroid, and systemic insecticides.

Spider mites are almost impossible to see with the naked eye. They are extremely small and a magnifying glass is usually needed to see them. They usually attack new leaves and buds. Plants infested with mites lose their green color and appear bronzed or washed out. In severe cases, the mites will form a fine webbing covering the underside of leaves. Once a plant is infested with mites, control will be difficult, if not impossible. Isolate your plant immediately, and dip it or spray it weekly with insecticidal soap. Systemic insecticides are sometimes effective if used soon enough, before it gets out of hand. Be sure that the product you use is listed as being effective against mites, and follow the directions on the label.

Aside from using chemical sprays, which specify that they will control spider mites, the other thing you could do would be use good old soap and water. Getting rid of the spider mites will take perseverance or you will just postpone the next infestation. Make certain to spray the bottoms of the leaves.

Mites can reproduce ever 3-7 days, so it is critical that you spray on a daily basis until the problem is under control. Dry air encourages spider mites to breed so anything you can do to increase the surrounding humidity will help you in your 'mite fight'.

Mealybugs look like little white tufts of cotton so they are often mistaken for a disease. They are normally found on the underside of leaves or on stems at the apex of leaf joints. Mealybugs suck out the plant juices, often stunting or killing the plants. The white, waxy coating protects the insects from sprays, making control difficult. Treatments are complicated in severe infestations because of "layering" by the mealybugs. It is not unusual to find great clusters of them two or three deep. Lightly sprayed insecticides do not penetrate well and usually kill only the outer layer. Touching each insect with a small brush or Q-tip dipped in alcohol will kill them, but the babies are very small and are often overlooked, so a recurrence is possible. Be vigilant! Systemic insecticides may work.

Whitefly is a small 'white' fly. Their control is made more difficult by the fact that they will leave the plant as soon as you try to spray them. The immature stage of whitefly is scale-like and doesn't move, so it is in this stage that you must defeat them by weekly spraying or dipping with insecticidal soap.

Scale insects can be identified by looking on the underside of leaves, around leaf joints, and on the branches. Some kinds of scales infest the leaves of plants, while others are found both on stems and leaves, and still others are attached mainly to the stems. Scales obtain food by sucking the plant juices. Scale-damaged plants look withered and sickly and may have sticky sap or a black fungus on the leaves and stems. Scale insects often build up to large numbers because they go undetected. Scale insects vary considerably in appearance. Know what you're looking for. Scales are insects with piercing/sucking mouth parts. Female scale insects look like small (1/10 to 1/5 inch), oval, legless bumps. They may be circular, oval, elliptical to oyster-shell shaped and even linear and rectangular. Some are flattened and others elevated, resembling a tortoise shell. Colors range from white to black, but grays and browns are predominate. Most species are from 1/16 to 1/8 inch in diameter. The males are minute yellow-winged insects, and the larvae resemble small mealybugs.

Soft scales can be difficult to control since their protective covering largely prevents contact insecticides from being effective. However, spray oils are the most effective treatments for scales. Alcohol and soap sprays may also provide some control of scales, particularly crawler and very young, poorly protected stages. Where infestations are not widespread, scales can be killed by rubbing or picking them off. Fairly minor disturbance of the settled scale can break its mouthparts, causing it to starve. Scales killed in this manner, or by soaps or oils, may remain in place and appear similar to living scales.

Crawler stages are susceptible to most houseplant insecticides. However, insecticides must maintain coverage throughout an entire generation of the insect (two to four months) to eliminate further infestation. Short persisting insecticides, such as pyrethrins and resmethrin, need to be reapplyed at least once per week. Longer persisting treatments, such as bifenthrin and permethrin are effective for scale control when used at longer intervals. Soil applied systemic insecticide, imidacloprid, should be effective for most soft scale infestations.

Fungus Gnats were once thought to be a nuisance pest only in the greenhouse and outside. However, fungus gnats make their way into your home in the fall or on new plants you bring home.

This is a small (1/8" long), mosquito-like insect with long legs and antennae. Females lay their eggs near a food source, which is in the root zone of plants. The larvae are translucent to white in color with a distinctive black head. Their life-cycle may be completed in as little as three to four weeks depending upon temperature. Ferti-lome Triple Action Plus RTU can be used outside and inside for control of fungus gnats. The best treatment is to spray the top of the soil in your potted plants. The adults will come in contract with it as they climb in and out of the soil. Since their life cycle is three to four weeks, repeated applications will be necessary. Trying to spray the adult, flying around your house will be useless and not effective. You can control fungus gnats organically by mixing dietamatios earth to the soil.

Indoor plants are good for our mind, body and soul.

Plants in your home and workplace can make you healthier by reducing chemical vapors emitted by synthetic materials, add healthy, microbial-free humidity to dry indoor air, and reduce airborne mold spores and bacteria. Through photosynthesis, plants absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. They also have a psychological and physiological calming effect that helps reduce stress and lower elevated blood pressure and pulse rates, and they look great.

The EPA ranks indoor air quality as one of the top five health threats in the United States!

Most of us spend 90 percent of our lives indoors. According to the EPA, indoor air typically contains two to five times more pollutants than outdoor air and can be up to 10 times more polluted.

Common products like paints, tobacco smoke, synthetic upholstery, printer inks and even carpets, emit noxious gases. Houseplants can remove up to 87 percent of airborne toxic gases emitted from these products. The toxins are absorbed into the root zone, where they're turned into nutrients for the plant.
The more time we live and work indoors, which is most of the day, the more we need houseplants surrounding us for our health and well-being. Call it a healthy "co-dependency" that benefits the environment and helps to improve the quality of our lives.Indoor plants help purge the air of airborne toxins with the same efficiency as rainforests cleaning our atmosphere.
Houseplants increase humidity. Airborne microbes are suppressed and fewer dust particle are found in rooms containing plants.

Plants in the workplace significantly reduce "sick building syndrome", which has vague symptoms such as fatigue, headaches, itchy skin and respiratory complaints. It has been found that plants improved productivity and reduce absenteeism.

Besides cleaning our air and providing oxygen and health benefits, plants add instant beauty and liven up any space.

How many plants does it take? At least two medium or large plants for an average-sized room or office space (100 sq. ft) for maximum cleansing benefits.

What are some of the best plants for cleaning the air? The best plants are peace lilies, dracaena, philodendrons, golden pothos, palms, and diffenbachia.